January - March 2019

1. Views From the Top of Liyu Mountain 鯉魚山

Li Yu Mountain is in the middle of Taitung City.  I walked around up there last weekend, and these are the pictures I took.


This pagoda is for dead people.  Tourists get their hopes up when they see it, but no, you can't go up to the top.


The green building is the new Gaya Hotel.


The building with the red roof is the old stadium.  The green space around it is where Taitung University used to be.  It's since moved south to Jer Ben 知本.


This mountain was a military base long ago.  There are still many tunnels leading into the mountain, but the government has blocked them all up.


That's Dulan Mountain 都蘭山 in the background.


Nanjing Road 南京路.  The smaller hill in the distance is Monkey Mountain 猴子山.  It's still a military base, so civilians aren't allowed up there.


The pagoda from above.  The Pacific Ocean in the distance.


Still higher up, but also looking toward Dulan Mountain.


On the other side of the mountain, looking southwest.  The valley in the background to the left is where the Jer Ben Hot Springs are.


Still looking toward Jer Ben.  The swath of green in the middle is the Tai Ping River 太平溪.


Looking north again, from the other side of the pagoda.


South.  The bigger building with the red roof in the foreground is the school where I am now typing this.


Looking southeast, toward the Pacific.  The big building in the middle is Mackay Hospital 馬偕醫院.  You can see my school's athletic field next to it.


Looking toward the mouth of the Taiping River.  The clouds were coming in fast and we had to go!

2. 長濱鄉的太子宮 Tai Dze Temple, Chang Bin Township

"Tai Dze" 太子 or "San Tai Dze" 三太子 are other names for the deity known as Nezha 哪吒.  The article on Wikipedia states that he's popular with drivers and gamblers, and he's usually depicted as a young man riding "wind-fire wheels" 風火輪, holding a ring in one hand and a spear in the other.

Taiwan has a few Tai Dze temples, but as an object of worship he's not nearly as popular Tu Di Gong 土地公, Guan Wu 關羽, or Matsu 媽祖.

The temple in the pictures below is just north of Shiao Gang 小港, in Chang Bin Township 長濱鄉.  The location on Google Maps is here.  The rock in the first picture is known as "Man's Rock 男人石," and is also a location in itself.

It's worth noting that the more famous Ba Shian Caves 八仙洞, also in Chang Bin Township, are often described as resembling a vagina.  Both places are considered auspicious in terms of fertility, and both have been host to temples for a very long time.



This is Man's Rock.  It's supposed to look like a penis, but I'm really not seeing that.  Maybe it looks more like a penis from the other side?


Plaque explaining the beneficial aspects of the rock/site.  Since this plaque seems to be referring to Tu Di Gong (大福公), I'm assuming the beneficial aspects listed on the plaque can be attributed to him.*


The trees growing out of Man's Rock looked kind of nightmarish to me, but maybe they're prettier when the sun is out.


Another plaque describing how to perform ritual observances at the site.


And yes, there are a lot of stone penises set around Man's Rock.  This is where the fertility aspect of the place becomes more obvious.


View of the two temples adjacent to Man's Rock.  The one on the right with the red roof is dedicated to (San) Tai Dze.


Smaller shrine set into Man's Rock.  There's a small statue of the goddess Guanyin 觀音 below it.


In case you're unfamiliar with Chang Bin Township, there's really not a lot there.  The biggest town is probably "Downtown Chang Bin 長濱市區," and the only thing that place can boast of is a 7-11.  This is a view toward the ocean, which you can't see because of the clouds.


I'd give anyone brave enough to put their arm into one of these holes 100 NT.  Excellent place for snakes to spend the winter.


Aside from the big stone penis above, there are many smaller stone penises set in a circle around Man's Rock.  They were made out of different kinds of rock, so they come in different colors.


"All things emanate from the Source."  Deep thoughts from a former magistrate.


Inside the green-roofed temple.  It's easy to get gods confused, but I'm pretty sure that's (San) Tai Dze sitting on the throne in the middle.


The older, red-roofed temple.  This one is obviously dedicated to (San) Tai Dze, though of course other gods can be found in his temple.  

Understanding Taoism can be hard for Westerners like me.  I'm used to separating things into categories and defining terms, while Taoism is more about mixing things up and leaving things open to interpretation.


Like all temples, there are lions guarding the entrance.  This particular temple also had a one-legged dog helping the lions stand guard.


Gotta be (San) Tai Dze seated in front of the incense.  I'm guessing the god seated beneath the dragon is the Jade Emperor 玉皇大帝, king of the gods.  The red-faced guy next to him is probably Guan Yu, and I'm thinking that's Tu Di Gong to the right of the Jade Emperor.


This is a door god (or spirit) 門神.  You see them in many temples.  I have no idea who this one is supposed to represent.


Dragons, lots of dragons.  There's a real art to creating these kind of sculptures, and this art is being lost.  In modern times a lot of younger people don't visit temples, and the number of people able to restore/maintain these sculptures is shrinking.


Not sure who these three are, but I'm guessing they're the "Lords of the Three Realms 三界公."  They figure prominently in many Taoist rituals.  I like this dragon most of all.

3. Ramen and Asahi, Sushi and Tempura 拉麵跟Asahi, 壽司跟天婦羅

During Chinese New Year we went to Japan.  We flew from Taipei to Osaka, and the flight took about two hours.  This was our second trip to Japan, following a week in Okinawa WAY back in 2001.  The flight to Okinawa, as I recall, took about 45 minutes.  我們春節的時候去日本玩.  從台北飛到大阪要兩個小時.  這是我們第二次去日本, 第一次是2001年的時候去沖繩.  我記得飛到沖繩要45分鐘.

I'm always surprised I haven't been to Japan more times, but I suppose the cheapness and exoticism of Southeast Asia usually win out over the expense and relative sobriety of Japan.  It's not that I dislike Japan; I've always liked Japan, but whenever we start looking at plane tickets Japan usually gets passed over for other countries.  我總是驚訝於自己只去過日本兩次.  大概是因為去東南亞比較有異國情調和費用比較低.  不是因為我不喜歡日本.  我一直都喜歡日本, 只是當我們開始找機票後通常會選其他的國家.

The weather in Japan is cold right now.  It even snowed a bit when we were there.  It reminded me of Seattle this time of year, and when we were in the mountains I could almost imagine myself in the Pacific Northwest.  Same chill in the air.  Same kinds of trees.  現在日本的天氣很冷.  我們在那裏的時候下了一點點雪.  那樣的天氣讓我想念起這時候的西雅圖.  在山區的時候, 我可以假裝自己在美國的西北部, 天氣一樣的寒冷,  樹種也一樣.

After we arrived in Japan and passed through immigration, we had to buy train tickets because we were staying in Kyoto that night.  Japan's train system is crazy complicated, and looking at their transit maps often gave me a headache.  You take the JR line to this place.  You take the electric train to that place.  You take the subway to another place.  Or you take the bus if that doesn't work.  In the end I realized that all of those trains, subways and buses go to many of the same places, but that first time buying tickets in the Osaka Airport was perplexing, to say the least.  我們到日本過海關之後需要買火車票到京都過夜.  日本的鐵路系統滿複雜的, 看他們的交通地圖讓我頭痛.  這條JR線往這個地點,  要坐這條電車線往那個地點,  或是坐公車去.  我快要回國的時候發現大部分的火車, 電車還有公車都是往同一些地點, 可是第一次在大阪機場買火車票讓我很緊張.

I feel like people in Taiwan speak better English than people in Japan - but I could be wrong.  People in Japan are unfailingly polite, so even when you don't understand them and they don't understand you no one feels embarrassed.  We'd go into restaurants and the people serving us would launch into the most elaborate explanations in Japanese - as if we could understand a single word they said.  We always smiled at this, and did our best to be polite.  我覺得台灣人比日本人會英文, 但也有可能我錯了.  日本人很有禮貌, 所以雙方有溝通問題的時候不會覺得很丟臉.  我們去餐廳吃飯的時候服務員會很努力地介紹食物的特色, 可是我們完全聽不懂,  只能每次笑著並努力的保持禮貌.

Kyoto is very quiet.  Of course the area near the Kyoto Train Station is a beehive - and also a very fun place to watch people - but the parts away from the train station, toward the mountains, are SO quiet.  That's unless you're visiting somewhere like the Inari Shrine, and half of Mainland China is visiting it with you.  In that case no, it's not quiet.  京都很安靜.  京都車站附近當然很熱鬧, 在那邊看人也很好玩, 但是離車站遠一點且靠近山坡的地方很安靜.  除了像伏見稻荷大社那種景點到處都有大陸客陪你之外, 不然很安靜.

The food in Japan is both awesome and expensive.  I had the best ramen I've ever had in my life there, and also some great sushi.  When most Japanese restaurants fry something, they fry it perfectly, and when they add sauce to something they almost never add too much.  The consistency of the food in Japan impressed me more than anything.  Sure, we had a few average meals there, but the quality of the food was always obvious from the way the restaurant looked.  日本料理又好吃又貴.  我在那裏吃到我人生中最好吃的拉麵, 也有吃很不錯的壽司.  日本餐廳炸東西的時候會炸到完美, 加醬料的時候不會加太多.  我覺得那邊的食物都很好吃.  當然有的餐廳差了點, 可是一般來說從餐廳的外觀都可以看出裡面的食物品質.

...and going back to that Inari Shrine, if you keep walking up the mountain it's fine.  Most of the Mainlanders only walk up to where there's a view of Kyoto, and in doing so they miss the best part.  After that view you enter a quiet forest, populated by red wooden gates.  It's like being in a samurai movie and it's great.  再講伏見稻荷大社,   大部分的大陸客只會上山到一半, 並在觀賞京都風景最好的地點折返.  他們錯過了最好的部分.  你如果繼續上山就可以進入安靜的森林, 頭頂上方都是紅色的鳥居,  很像在武士電影裡面,  感覺很酷.

After Kyoto we went back to Osaka.  In many ways Osaka is the opposite of Kyoto: very noisy and very modern.  We stayed in an old hotel near the Dotonbori Shopping District, within sight of the famous red crab that adorns one of the restaurants there.  I really enjoyed walking around Dotonbori, though after a while my brain started to shut down due to the variety of restaurants and stores.  It was like the JR Railways map, only in 3D.  我們繼京都之後去大阪.  在大阪的感覺是完全相反的, 到處都很熱鬧, 所有的東西非常現代化.  我們住道頓堀附近的老飯店.  飯店對面可以看到掛在餐廳上有名的螃蟹.  我很喜歡在道頓堀附近逛街, 餐廳和商店的選擇多到讓我頭痛.  有點像JR鐵路的地圖, 可是是3D的.

Osaka Castle would be cool if it wasn't besieged by tourists.  As it is it's ok.  It's a long damn walk to get there from the metro station.  We didn't go to the aquarium.  We didn't go to Universal Studios either.  Surprisingly my favorite part of Osaka was riding the train back from the Asahi Brewery, because it was at that moment that I felt I was really in Japan, far from other tourists.  大阪城沒那麼多觀光客會更好,  現在的狀況還好.  從捷運站走到那邊很累.  我們沒去海洋館, 也沒去環球影城.  驚訝的是, 我在大阪最喜歡部分是從Asahi的啤酒廠坐電車回去飯店的路上.  因為那時候真有 "在日本" 的感覺, 也沒碰到很多其他的觀光客.

I'd like to get back to Japan one day soon.  Maybe even live there at some point.  This is a much more realistic option than the idea I was entertaining before the trip, which was to live in Myanmar near my brother and sister-in-law.  Both options would be fun and challenging in different ways, but I think Japan is more my speed.  我想很快地再去日本.  有一天住在那裏也好.  去日本玩以前, 我在考慮要不要跟太太的弟弟和弟妹一起住緬甸.  這兩個選擇都有不同的趣味和挑戰, 可是我覺得日本比較適合我也比較實際.

That, or I'll just stay in Taiwan and travel to those places.  That's good too.  Ask me in a month or so, after my Japan memories have dulled a bit.  Maybe then I'll think the idea of living there is silly.  Or maybe I'll have another place in mind.  還是我留在台灣, 利用放假的時間去那些地方玩, 這樣子也很好.  一個月之後再問我, 等我在日本玩的回憶淡一點,  有可能那時候我覺得住日本這個主意很好笑,  還是我比較想搬到其他的地方.

4. Mei Nong Terrace 美農高台 / Ss Ge Mountain 四格山

Mei Nong Terrace* is just north of the Taitung Train Station.  You follow Shing An Road past the intersection leading to the station, and after a few twists and turns this road leads up to Mei Nong Terrace.  美農高台位於台東車站北邊.  順著興安路經過車站的大路口之後, 往上走彎來彎去的小路就會到美農高台.



Even further up, a couple more twists and turns lead you to Ss Ge Mountain, which lies atop Mei Nong Terrace.  At the end of a steep, narrow road you'll find these stairs, leading up to an impressive view.  更上去之後, 經過一些彎曲的小路可以直接到美農高台上的四格山.  到達路的終點走上這些樓梯後可以到很棒的觀景台.


This is looking northwest along the Beinan River.  Dulan Mountain is in the background.  Highway 197 is on the other side of the river.  朝西北部看卑南溪.  都蘭山在溪的另一邊.  台197縣道也在溪的另外一邊.


This is looking more west.  Not sure if that hill/mountain in the middle has a name.  There's not much over there.  這是更西邊的風景.  我不知道中間的山坡有沒有名字.  那邊沒什麼東西.


This is looking southeast, into the East Rift Valley.  The town of Chu Lu is down there somewhere, probably near the right edge of the picture.  往東南邊看的花東縱谷.  初鹿村也在照片中, 大概是照片的最右邊.


This is looking northeast, toward the mouth of the Beinan River.  Taitung City is somewhere below all those plants.  往東北邊的卑南溪口看.  台東市隱藏在雜草下方.


It's very quiet on top of Ss Ge Mountain.  It's not a major tourist destination, and the big tour buses have no way of making it up to the top.  在四格山上很安靜.  這裡不算有名的景點, 大遊覽車也沒辦法上去.


This is much farther down, on the road that leads up to the viewing area.  They grow a lot of sugar apples in this area.  四格山腳下的那條路有許多農民種的釋迦.


Still further down, on Mei Nong Terrace.  The signs around here are very confusing, and I'm not sure if this spot is in Mei Nong Village, Bin Lang Village, or Ding Yan Wan Village.  再往下走是美農高台.  這附近的路標讓人一頭霧水.  我不確定這塊地在美農村, 檳榔村, 或是頂岩灣村.


On the way down to the other side of Mei Nong Terrace, not far from Highway 9.  Not a 7-11, Family Mart or other convenience store within miles of this place.  美農高台的另外一邊, 靠近台9線.  這裡幾公里內都沒有7-11, 全家或其他的便利商店.


The local Tu Di Gong (Earth God) temple.  Not impressive, but then again there aren't that many people living here.  當地的土地公廟.  不是很特別, 就只是社區居民不多的一間土地公廟.

5. 11 More Tang Dynasty Poems 二十首唐詩

For the first 20 poems in my book and an introduction to these poems click here.

閨怨 Boudoir Guilt     王昌齡 by Wang Chang-ling

閨中少婦不知愁,
The young woman in the boudoir doesn't know worry,
春日凝妝上翠樓.
She mounts the balcony after putting on her face.
忽見陌頭楊柳色,
She spies a willow tree dancing in the spring wind,
悔教夫壻覓封侯.
And thinks her husband shouldn't have to travel so far seeking fame and fortune.

芙蓉樓送辛漸  Sending Off Shing Jian From the Fu Ruo Tower
   王昌齡 by Wang Chang-ling

寒雨連江夜入吳,
Braving the winter rains reach Jiang Nan,
平明送客楚山孤.
Sending off a guest from the lonely mountains the following morning.
洛陽親友如相問,
My friends and relatives in Luo Yang ask after me,
一片冰心在玉壺.
My heart is like a piece of ice in a jade pot.

春晴 Spring Clearing     王駕 by Wang Jia

雨前初見花間蕊,
Before the rain so many flower stamens can be seen,
雨後全無葉底花.
After the rain the flowers close up.
蜂蝶紛紛過牆去,
The butterflies fly to the garden fence,
卻疑春色在鄰家.
It may be that spring has come to my house.

九月九日憶山東兄弟 Remembering Brothers in Shan Dong During Chong Yang Festival
     王維 by Wang Wei

獨在異鄉為異客,
I was a living in someone else's hometown,
每逢佳節倍思親.
Every festival time missing my relatives.
遙知兄弟登高處,
From a distance thinking that my brothers are in the high mountains,
徧插茱萸少一人.
One of their number carries not the valerian.*

秋夕 Autumn Eve     杜牧 by Du Mu

銀燭秋光冷畫屏,
The silvery autumn moon is like a candle flame cut out of a screen, 
輕羅小扇撲流螢.
Young girls chase fireflies with fans.
天階夜色涼如水,
At night the courtyard steps are cool like water,
臥看牽牛織女星.
In exhaustion they gaze up at The Cowherd and The Woman.**

赤壁 Chr Bi***     杜牧 by Du Mu

折戟沉沙鐵未銷,
A broken spear stuck in the sand unrusted,
自將磨洗認前朝.
I take the relic of the Three Kingdoms out and clean it off.
東風不與周郎便,
If Dong Feng had not come the Jhou would have lost the battle,
銅雀春深鎖二喬.
Both Big and Little Chiao were already imprisoned.

贈別 Given Away     杜牧 by Du Mu

多情卻似總無情,
Full of feeling yet far apart,
唯覺尊前笑不成.
I cannot call my laughter forth.
蠟燭有心還惜別,
The candle burns low like our feelings,
替人垂淚到天明.
Flickering like our tears until sunrise.

清明 Ching Ming Festival     杜牧 by Du Mu

清明時節雨紛紛,
A heavy rain during Ching Ming Festival,****
路上行人欲斷魂.
The people on the road can't help but feel sad.
借問酒家何處有,
I want to ask someone where I can buy wine,
牧童遙指杏花村.
A shepherd boy points the way to Shing Hua Village.

城東早春 Early Spring in Cheng Dong     楊巨源 by Yang Ju-yuan

詩家清景在新春,
Spring offers the scenery most loved by poets,
綠柳纔黃半未勻.
The green willows shoot forth young yellow buds.
若待上林花似錦,
If you want to enjoy the flowers in the courtyard,
出門俱是看花人.
Just go outside and follow the flower watchers.

登幽州臺歌 A Song for Mounting the You Jou Tower     
陳子昂 by Chen Dze-ang

前不見古人,
I see not the ancients before me,
後不見來者.
I see not my descendants behind.
念天地之悠悠,
When I think about the endlessness of the world,
獨愴然而涕下.
I cannot help but cry.

漁翁 The Fisherman     柳宗元 by Liou Dzong-yuan

漁翁夜傍西巖宿,
The fisherman ties up his boat for the evening,
曉汲清湘然楚竹.
He wakes and starts a bamboo fire near the water.
烟消日出不見人,
The early morning clouds part unseen by others,
欸乃一聲山水綠.
He hears "ai nai" as he floats into green mountain water.
迴看天際下中流,
He looks back and sees his boat descending from the heavens,
嚴上無心雲相逐.
While countless clouds chase each other across the sky.

6. What's Going On On My Street 我的住家街道

My street is not far from Ma Heng Heng Boulevard and Bao Sang Junior High School.  You could say that my street is on the way to the Taitung Train Station, if you know the shortcut on the other end of town.  我家位於馬亨亨大道不遠處的街道, 離寶桑國中很近.  如果你知道從市區到台東火車站最快的路線, 那也可以說我家這條街位在往火車站的路.

My street is shaped like a reverse letter "J."  This was something I learned recently, after walking from one end of my street to the other.  I'd previously assumed that my street ended just a few houses down from the Fang Fu* Coffee, but after walking there I discovered that it curves around to the right, and leads to another street near the local vegetable market.  我家街道的形狀像相反的"J".  這是我最近從這條街的起點走到終點的時候才發現的.  我以前認為它的終點靠近芳埠咖啡, 可是走到另外一邊的時候才發現順著街道往右是通往果菜市場的路.

I've lived on my street for about... nine years?  I think it's about nine years.  I'm really not sure.  Before we lived on my street, we lived on Chang Sha Street, in a community across from Mackay Hospital.  Before that we lived on Luo Yang Street, in a house not far from the intersection of Shin Sheng Road and Kai Feng Street.  我住在這條街上差不多九年的時間.  大概是九年.  我不是很確定.  我們以前住過長沙街, 在馬偕醫院對面的一個社區.  在這之前住過洛陽街上, 靠近新生路與開封街路口的一棟房子.

We would have bought the second floor apartment we were living in on Chang Sha Street, but the owner was asking too much for it.  We never thought about buying the house on Luo Yang Street, because we thought (incorrectly) that we were moving back to Seattle for good.  In the end it all worked out, because I think my present street is better than those other two I lived on.  我們住長沙街的時候想買那裡二樓的公寓, 可是屋主開的價錢太高.  我們沒想過買洛陽街的房子, 因為那時候的想法是要搬回去西雅圖.  最後所有的事情都解決了, 我現在住的這條街比之前住過的二個地方都好.

So now I live on the other side of town.  Some people think where I live is far, but I don't think so.  I have friends who live as far away as Dulan and Cheng Gong, and even they commute into Taitung City every day.  Compared their drive to work, my 15 minute bike ride doesn't seem like a big deal.  我現在住在台東市的另外一邊.  有的人覺得我的社區很遠, 可是我不這麼覺得.  我有朋友住在更遠的都蘭成功, 他們每天來台東市區上班.  跟他們比, 我覺得我每天騎15分鐘單車到學校很好.

The nearer end of my street is right next to Bao Sang Middle School, though you wouldn't notice that the middle school is so close unless you climbed up high.  A friend from South Africa once lived in the cul de sac there, but later moved to Shr Chuan, where he still lives.  這條街道的一頭靠近寶桑國中, 可是在路邊看不到那所學校.  要爬到比較高的地方才可以看得到.  以前有位南非的朋友住在這裡, 後來他搬到石川去了, 目前還是住在那裡.

After the cul de sac my street crosses over another, bigger road.  There's a "Beautiful City" breakfast restaurant there, which I eat at very occasionally.  To be honest I don't like their food all that much, but I will eat it if I've been cycling, it's early, and I'm especially hungry.  Next to the "Beautiful City" there's a store selling beer that I've never patronized, and across the intersection from "Beautiful City" there's the "Eastern Garden" lunch box restaurant, which offers, in my humble opinion, some of the best fried chicken in Taitung City.  在街道起點附近過了一條大馬路就有一家美芝城早餐店.  我有時候在那裏吃早餐.  說實話, 我不是很喜歡他們的食物, 但我如果那天很早騎單車運動回來, 肚子很餓的時候會去那裏吃早餐.  美芝城隔壁有一家我沒進去過的啤酒商店.  美芝城對面還有東之園便當.  我覺得他們的炸雞很好吃.

Further up my street there's a freshly painted house for sale.  This house has been for sale for as long as I can remember.  I think the owner must be asking too much for it.  Next to that house there's another house where women spend hours sorting and preparing the leaves used for wrapping betel nut.  I've heard that some people make a lot of money that way.  再過來有棟剛擦好油漆的房子要賣.  這棟房子已經賣一段時間了.  可能它的主人要的價錢太高.  那棟房子的隔壁整天都有一群女人在疊荖葉.  聽說有的人疊荖葉可以賺很多錢.

Right next to where I live there's a third floor apartment where a foreign couple lived, years ago.  They were both cool people, and they revisited the area on vacation about two years back.  They had a huge dog and were very outdoorsy - much more outdoorsy than I am.  我家大樓隔壁的公寓以前住有一對外國人士.  他們二個都是好人, 兩年前又來台東度假.  他們養了一隻大狗, 也很喜歡戶外活動.  他們比我更喜歡待在戶外.

Across from the building where I live someone is renovating a house.  I was told that this house was bought by a church group.  A couple weeks ago I saw a dreadlocked foreigner standing in front of this house, and I can only assume he has something to do with that church group.  I would have said hello to him, but he was engaged in conversation with one of the construction workers there.  我大樓前面的一棟房子正在裝修.  聽說是教會買下了這棟房子.  二個禮拜前我看到一位外國先生在這棟房子前.  我猜他是教會的人員.  我想跟他打招呼, 可是他忙著跟施工人員講話.

Still further up there's the tiny Faith Bible Church.  I've never seen anyone go in or out of it, so I can only assume that it's either defunct or the congregation is very small.  Across from the Faith Bible Church there's a new corner restaurant that sells turnip cake, potstickers and a few other menu items, but I have yet to eat there.  This corner restaurant is also close to the Ying Tsai Cram School.  Across from the cram school there's an empty lot where someone is growing sugar apples** and dragonfruit.  再過去有一小小的信心聖經教會.  我沒看過很多人出入, 所以我猜信徒不多或是那棟教會沒在使用.  信心聖經教會對面有小吃部賣蘿蔔糕, 鍋貼和其他食物.  我還沒吃過那裏的食物.  小吃部也靠近英才補習班.  補習班對面有一塊空地.  有人在空地裡種釋迦跟火龍果.

Past the lot there's the other big intersection on my street.  On the corner there's Fang Fu Coffee, which we've never been to.  I suppose that when we're looking for coffee I just forget it's there.  經過空地之後是一大路口.  路口的一角是方埠咖啡.  我們還沒進去過那裏.  我們每次要喝咖啡的時候都沒想到那個地方.

Just past this intersection is where one of my former Taiwanese coworkers lives with her family.  She is an English teacher at Tung Hai Junior High School, and I worked with her for two years.  I'm not sure what she's up to lately, but she was one of my favorite coworkers at the junior high.  過了這個路口就到了我之前同事的家.  她是東海國中的英語老師.  我跟她共事二年.  我很久沒有她的消息了, 可是她是我在東海國中最喜歡的同事之一.

Next to her house there's an empty, fenced field.  On the fence are several handwritten signs, advertising properties for sale in the area.  The cheapest of these properties is in Feng Rong, near Taitung City's Industrial Area (3.5 million NT dollars).  The most expensive is near the Taitung Train Station (28 million NT dollars).  A lot of the newer houses with elevators are near the Taitung Train Station, and most people don't want to live in Feng Rong, so the price discrepancy is no surprise.  她的房子旁邊有一塊圍起來的空地.  籬笆上有些手寫的不動產廣告.  最便宜的在台東市工業區的豐榮 (350萬).  最貴的靠近台東車站 (2800萬).  最新的房子大部分靠近台東車站.  很多人不想住豐榮, 所以價格的差別是當然的事.

After my former coworker's house the road starts to curve around to the right.  On the left there's what is, I think, a Chinese medicine doctor, across from this there's a small temple, and also on the left there are two new buildings used as homestays ("Eastern Vacation Homestay" and "Happy Vacation Homestay"), and finally a more run-down area where there are some old houses and an untended field.  This is where the road ends, not far from the Taitung Fruit and Vegetable Market.  經過我同事家後, 街道開始往右彎.  街道左邊好像是中醫, 它的對面有所小廟.  左邊還有兩棟民宿: 一棟叫東方假期, 一棟叫快樂假期.  街道最後一段有些舊房子跟沒有人在用的農地, 看起來破舊.  這是街路的終點, 也很靠近台東果菜市場.

That, all in all, is my street.  An uneventful place to be sure, but it suits me just fine.  這是我住的街道的樣子, 這裡沒什麼大事發生, 可是這條街滿適合我.

7. Hello, Taitung Person 台東人妳好 8

In the Hello, Taitung Person entries I'll be interviewing local residents.  They decide what kind of biographical information to include.  Some people are more private individuals, and I respect that.  Others are happy to make their presence known, and I respect that too.  在 "台東人你好" 這些文章中我會介紹當地的居民.  這些資訊是他們同意分享的.  有的人比較重視隱私,  有的人則開心地讓他人更認識自己.  我尊重這二者不同的做法.

All numbered questions were chosen randomly from a list of 45 questions.  下列編號的問題是隨機由五十個問題中選出來的. 

The thoughts and opinions expressed below belong to the person offering them, and may not be shared by the person writing this blog.  下列是被訪問者的想法與意見, 與寫這個blog的我不一定一樣.

First Name 名字: Grace
Last Name 姓: Fan
Chinese Name 中文名字: 葛瑞斯
Employment 工作地點: Naruwan Hotel 娜路彎大酒店
Country of Origin 國家: Philippines 菲律賓
Age 年齡: 38 歲
Length of Residence in Taiwan 居住在台灣的時間: 11 years 年
Place of Residence in Taitung 住在台東地區: Feng Tian 豐田
Favorite Color 最喜歡的顏色: white 白色

1. Q: How do you feel about temple festivals? 妳對廟會有什麼意見?

A: Yeah, it's very crowded and it's quite amazing.  很熱鬧, 也相當精彩.

2. Q: What do you like to eat?  What do you not like to eat? 妳喜歡吃什麼?  妳不喜歡吃什麼?

A: Oh I like vegetables and fruits.  I don't like that... what do you call it?  "Meat-blood?"  [pork blood cake]  Cold meat.**  I don't like the smell.  我喜歡蔬菜跟水果.  我不喜歡那個... 叫什麼?  "肉血."  [豬血糕]  冷肉片.  我不喜歡那個味道.

3. Q: In what ways is Taiwan better than your home country? 台灣和妳的國家比較, 台灣有那些優點?

A: Maybe if you process papers or documents it's very fast here.  In Taiwan, very convenient.  Fast.  在這裡公家機關做事效率很快.  在台灣很方便.  很快.

4. Q: What time do you usually go to bed?  Why? 妳通常幾點睡覺?  為什麼?

A: 10:30.  Because I'm a busy mother and I have to fix everything in the house before I sleep.  And of course surfing the internet. [laughing]  Yeah.  十點半.  因為我是個很忙的母親, 要處理家裡所有的事務.  當然也要有上網的時間.  [在笑]  沒錯.

5. Q: What do you usually do after work? 妳下班之後通常做什麼?

A: I take a nap.  我小睡一下.

6. Q: How do you overcome some Taiwanese people's fear of talking to foreigners? 一些台灣人和外國人交談會害怕,你是如何克服這問題的?

A: They're so friendly.  Yeah, they're so friendly.  I feel nervous sometimes because my Mandarin is not good, but it's my concern.  From Taiwanese people talking to foreigners, I think they didn't feel nervous.  Not at all.  Others?  Yeah.  他們很友善.  對! 他們很友善.  我有時候會緊張, 因為我的國語不太好, 所以我很在乎這個部分.  我覺得台灣人跟外國人講話不會緊張.  一點都不會.  其他人呢?  有可能.

7. Q: Is it better or worse to be homosexual in Taiwan?  Why? 台灣的環境對同性戀友善嗎?  為什麼?

A: Oh, I am against it.  My opinion is homosexuality here, in Taiwan, it's not allowed it's better.  Maybe in Taiwan, because the Philippines... 我反對同性戀.  我的意見是台灣不接受同性戀比較好.  有可能同性戀在台灣比較好, 因為菲律賓...

8. Q: What do you like to do? 妳喜歡做什麼?

A: What do you like to do?  My priority in life is first, my family, my work, and living as a Christian.  That's all.  Maybe I prefer to go to sports.  I love basketball.  Sometimes.  Because I'm busy!  妳喜歡做什麼?  我生活中最寶貴的就是我的家人, 我的工作, 還有當個虔誠的基督教徒.  只有這樣子.  可能我也想運動.  我喜愛籃球,  有時候會玩.  我很忙!

9. Q: It's Friday night.  You're in Taipei.  You have 5000 NT to spend.  What do you do? 禮拜五晚上.  妳在台北.  妳身上有五千元.  妳會做什麼?

A: I go shopping with my kids.  Yeah.  Of course since I have mentioned, my family.  For my kids.  Clothes.  Taitung compared to Taipei?  Maybe luxury bags.  Prada.  Perfumes.  And some other things.  我會跟孩子去逛街.  對.  我提到過我的家人.  為了我的孩子.  衣服.  台東跟台北比?  可能買包包.  Prada.  香水.  還有其他的東西.

10. Q: What do you like least about Taiwan? 妳最不喜歡台灣哪一個部分?

A: Maybe, no?  It's the "stick." 拜拜 [incense]  Only that smell.  Because when I smell that I'm suffocating.  可能沒有.  是香棒(香).  只是那個味道.  我聞到的時候覺得呼吸有點困難.

8. Guide to Taiwan for the Phobic 給恐懼症人的旅行指南

If you have acrophobia, you might not like Taiwan's big cities.  At some point you're going to find yourself in a department store - with the escalators going up and up and up - and you're going to look down, and that's going to be scary.  You might not want to visit the Taipei 101.  You might want to skip the suspension bridges.  如果你有懼高症, 你應該不會喜歡台灣的大城市.  在百貨公司裡隨著手扶梯越走越高時往下看, 那情景應該很可怕.  你最好不要去台北101, 也最好避開吊橋.

If you have aerophobia, you probably won't make it over here in the first place, since getting here involves hopping on a plane.  Maybe you could get here on a boat, but that would be complicated.  如果你有飛機恐懼症, 你應該不會到台灣來, 因為來這裡要坐飛機.  也許坐船也可以, 可是會讓旅程變得很複雜.

If you have arachnophobia, you'll be fine in most places.  Spiders aren't a big problem here.  But if I were you I'd avoid the areas closer to the mountains, because sometimes spiders like to build their webs near trails.  I've almost walked into those spiders face first a couple times, and it was super freaky.  如果你是蜘蛛恐懼症, 你在台灣大多數的地方都不會有問題.  只要不到山區就好.  因為蜘蛛喜歡在步道附近織.  我好幾次差一點就撞上蜘蛛網,  那感覺很可怕.

If you have astraphobia, I wouldn't recommend coming here around typhoon season.  Sometimes different air masses rub against each other just so, and the result is thunderstorms.  I like to go on the roof of my apartment building and watch thunderstorms, but I know YOU wouldn't like it.  如果你的恐懼症是針對雷電, 請你颱風季的時候不要來.  有時候兩個氣團撞在一起會發生雷雨.  我喜歡上我家大樓的頂樓看雷雨, 但我知道你不會喜歡.

If you have autophobia, you should frequent night markets.  All those people, squeezing together.  For the opposite reason I wouldn't recommend solo bike trips down the east coast, because you'll find yourself alone somewhere, and that will be scary.  如果你有孤獨恐懼症, 你會喜歡夜市,  那麼多人擠在一起.  相反地, 不要在台灣東部自己一個人騎單車.  因為有的地方沒有人,  你會覺得很緊張.

If you have claustrophobia, you might want to avoid those night markets.  Elevators in big buildings are also out of the question.*  And any popular restaurant on a weekend.  More than anything, you'll want to avoid taking either the MRT through Taipei Main Station or the KMRT through Formosa Boulevard Station.  The regular trains might be ok, depending on where you're getting on or off.  如果是幽閉恐懼症的話, 不要逛夜市.  大樓的電梯也不行.  周末也不能去熱門的餐廳.  對你來說, 最可怕二個地點大概是台北捷運站跟高雄捷運的美麗島站.  普通的火車應該沒有問題, 可是這要看你在哪個火車站上下車.

If you have hemophobia, you'll want to avoid hospitals of course, but you might also want to avoid traditional markets.  I'm not sure how you'd feel about pork blood cake, but be advised that it's everywhere.  如果有恐血症的話, 當然不要去醫院.  可是你也可能要避開傳統市場.  我不知道你對豬血糕會有什麼看法, 可是到處都有豬血糕.

If you have hydrophobia, I wouldn't visit Sun Moon Lake, take a ferry around An Ping Port, or join rafting expeditions down the Shiou Gu Lan River.  Also avoid the Dong Shan River Water Park, and the ferry to Ba Li from Danshui.  In the case of hydrophobia, typhoon season might also be a problem.  如果有恐水症, 不要去日月潭, 不要在安平港坐船, 不要在秀姑蘭溪划船.  也不要去冬山河親水公園或是從淡水坐船到八里.  有恐水症的人也不會喜歡颱風季.

If you have ophidiophobia avoid walking through tall grass or stretches of jungle.  Don't go to Liou He Night Market because there's a big snake restaurant there.  You might also want to cancel that Green Island diving expedition because, you know, sea snakes.  如果有恐蛇症, 不要在高草地或森林散步.  不要去六合夜市, 因為那邊有餐廳賣蛇肉.  不去綠島潛水因為有海蛇.

If you have zoophobia, naturally zoos are out of the question.  Then there are the dogs and cats on country roads.  Also rats and mice at night.  And frogs.  And snakes.  Actually you might be on your own with this one.  Maybe just stay in Taipei, near department stores.  Entomophobia?  Even worse.  如果是有恐動物症, 當然動物園是不可以去參觀的地方.  還有鄉間道路的狗跟貓.  晚上還有老鼠.  有青蛙.  也有蛇.  這裡到處都有動物.  你可能只能留在台北, 靠近百貨公司最好.  恐蟲症呢?  這是最慘的.

I could go on, of course.  There's a whole list of phobias you can peruse if you're interested.  Everything from "samhainophobia" (fear of Halloween) to "venustraphobia" (fear of beautiful women).  If you suffer from the former, you'll find Taiwan very relaxing around the end of October, and if you suffer from the latter I suppose it all depends on what - and who - you consider beautiful.  我當然可以繼續討論恐懼症.  有興趣的人可以參考這個網頁.  恐萬聖節症, 恐美女症, 什麼恐懼症都有.  十月的時候, 有恐萬聖節症的人大概覺得住台灣很好.  有恐美女症的人不一定在台灣有困難.  有沒有困難得先看你覺得什麼樣的女人很美.

If you're not Taiwanese, however, there's one phobia, xenophobia, that precludes your coming here.  In the case of xenophobia I'd recommend staying right where you are, because it's a big scary world out there, inhabited by many strange people, and at least some of those strange people happen to live in Taiwan**.  如果你不是台灣人, 還有一種恐懼症: 外族恐懼症, 讓你來這邊更不舒服.  有這種恐懼症的人應該留在自己的國家, 因為外國很可怕, 也有很多奇奇怪怪的人的地方.  台灣也是其中一個國家.

9. Fu Shan to Shan Yuan 富山到杉原

Fu Shan and Shan Yuan are villages in Beinan Township*.  They're a short drive up Highway 11, just north of Taitung City.  Of the two villages, Shan Yuan is definitely better known to tourists.  富山杉原同是卑南鄉的小村落.  都位於台11線上, 在台東市的北邊.  就這二個地方來說, 遊客會比較知道杉原.



This was taken south of Fu Shan, looking north up the coast.  這是在富山南邊往北邊海岸線看.


This is little further north, down a road leading to a beach.  再往北邊一點, 通往海邊的小路上.

In case you don't read Chinese, this sign warns people that this area is under surveillance, and that they shouldn't dump stuff here.  It's sad to say, but some local people use spots like this as dumping grounds.  如果你看不懂中文, 這塊牌子在警告民眾不可以亂丟廢棄物,   因為這地點有監視錄影器, .  真是很可惜, 有的當地居民會來這種地方亂丟垃圾.



The beach near that sign.  It's not a tourist spot, and the only other people I saw were fishermen.  You can see two of these fishermen on the right side, in the distance.  警告牌附近的海邊.  這裡不是觀光景點, 只有當地的居民會來.  照片右邊可以看到二位垂釣者.


I'm guessing that this low wall is the remains of a pond where someone once raised fish.  Whoever was using it gave up years ago.  我猜想這座矮牆應該是以前漁業養殖用的.  應該是很久以前養殖者棄置的.


Near that sign again, looking south.  Monkey Mountain rising up in the distance, with Jia Lu Lan and Shiao Ye Liou not far away.  警告牌附近往南看過去.  照片中間是猴子山加路蘭小野柳也在那附近.


This sign is fairly new, and also just south of Fu Shan Village.  The land behind it is used as a cemetery.  這個地標比較新, 在富山村南邊.  後面的那塊地是墳地.

In case you can't read it, the sign says, "Taitung City Welcomes You."  看不懂中文的話, 路標上寫的是: "台東市歡迎您."


North of Fu Shan Village.  I think this hill offers one of the best views of the coast.  在富山村北邊.  我覺得這附近的風景非常美麗.


You'll find the Jia River nearby.  I've heard of local people using this river as a source of drinking water.  I can only hope they're boiling it first.  這附近也有伽溪.  我聽說有的當地居民會喝裡面的水.  希望他們先燒開再喝.


Shan Yuan Beach, just south of Shan Yuan Village.  It's a good place for swimming, but a bad place for surfing.  The Taitung County Government once had great plans for this beach, but in recent years they seem to have forgotten about it.  杉原村北邊的杉原海灘.  這裡適合游泳, 可是不適合衝浪.  以前台東縣政府對於這個海灘有很多地區發展計畫, 可是最近幾年好像都沒消息了.


From the other end of the Shan Yuan Beach, looking south.  That's the much-reviled "Beautiful Bay Resort" in the distance.  This resort was in violation of several environmental regulations, and was only shut down after a long battle in the courts.  杉原沙灘的另外一邊, 往南邊看到的大樓是不收大家歡迎的美麗灣渡假村.  這個渡假村違反環評, 最後法院裁定不可營業.**


Someone is building another resort on the other side of Highway 11.  Part of this project involves gouging a big, ugly road into the side of a nearby hill.  You can see the road/gouge for miles in every direction.  台11線的另外一邊在蓋新的渡假村.  為了這個渡假村的工程, 他們在山坡上又開了一條又大又醜的路.  你可以從很遠的地方就看到這個景象.


Coral blocks, used to fortify the coast just north of Shan Yuan Village.  This is near the "protected" coral area popular with tourists.  杉原北邊可強化海岸的珊瑚.  這個地點靠近受歡迎的"受保護的"護漁區.

I put "protected" in quotation marks because the people doing the "protecting" are actually working for the local fishing association.  They seem more interested in making money than in protecting the fragile ecosystem found there.  那邊真的是"受保護的"護漁區嗎?  那邊的工作人員是地區漁會的員工.  他們似乎對利用珊瑚來賺錢更有興趣, 而保護脆弱的生態環境的觀念相對薄弱.


Going back south a bit, we found a road into the mountains just north of Fu Shan.  We followed this road for about half its length, and then had to turn around because we were afraid we'd get stuck.  我們往南走, 發現富山北邊有一條山路.  但我們只大概到這條路的一半就決定放棄,  因為路況太差了.

10. 美術節 Arts Day

The following was taken from the book "Chinese Holiday Stories 中國節日故事."  This book was published by ACME Cultural Enterprise Co., Ltd. 世一文化事業股份有限公司 in 2000.

美術節 
Arts Day
三月二十五日
March 25

很多人以為, 美術指的就是繪畫; 其實, 不光是繪畫, 只要是能用耳朵或眼睛來欣賞的藝術, 全都是美術.  因此, 雕刻是美術, 建築是美術, 音樂是美術, 詩歌也是美術.  Many people think that "art" means painting.  In reality art is more than painting.  Anything that you can appreciate with your ears or with your eyes is art.  For this reason, sculpture is also art.  Architecture is art, music is art, and poetry is also art.

對抗日戰期間, 當前方將士為了國家不惜拋頭顱, 灑熱血時, 後方百姓與各團體也同仇敵愾, 出錢出力, 為國救命; 這其中, 便包括了美術工作者.  During the war with the Japanese, while the soldiers on the front lines were doing their utmost for their country, the civilians and groups behind the front lines were also contributing their time and money toward saving the nation.  Artists were also part of this endeavor.

美術界人士在那一段期間, 不僅致力於宣傳抗戰的工作, 更在各地成立美術協會, 團結同志, 共同為抗戰的宣傳而努力.  During this time people from the art world were doing their utmost for the war against Japanese oppression, and in many places they formed art associations to unite like-minded people against their common enemy.

雖然他們並沒有直接投入殺敵的工作, 但是, 對於鼓舞軍民的抗戰情緒, 卻有莫大的作用.  Although they did not take part in the fighting, they strengthened the fighting spirit of the soldiers, and for this reason they were very important.

民國二十九年五月, 中華美術協會舉行第一屆年會, 決議以每年的九月九日為美術節, 後來又做了變更, 改為以三月三日為美術節.  On May 1940 the Chinese Arts Association held its first yearly meeting, in which it declared September 9th of each year to be Arts Day.  Later the date of Arts Day was switched to March 3.

民國三十三年, 教育部深深覺得, 在抗戰期間美術界人士紛紛主動放下純粹藝術創作的工作, 全力輔助政府各項政令的推行, 實在功不可沒; 於是, 經過研商, 特別核定以每年的三月二十五日為美術節.  In 1945 the Ministry of Education came to the conclusion that the wartime contributions of artists, and their promotion of government decrees could not be ignored, and after further research they declared March 25 of each year to be Arts Day.

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